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Here at Mazworx, we can build your cylinder head to your specifications. Utilizing our CNC capabilities and state-of-the-art equipment, you can ensure that the machining process is done properly. If you want a cylinder head that is ready-to-bolt-on, see the specifications section for info. For more understanding of our process, see the additional information section.

Each built head will start with the following:

Hot Tank Cleaning:
Wash your head to get oil and grim off.

Sand Blast Head:
Since these heads can be over 20 years old, they may start corroding. Sand blasting the block will get the corrosion/debris off, bring a uniform satin aluminum color to the head and give it an overall better look.

R/R Oil Port Plugs/Freeze Plugs:
This process includes removing, re-tapping, and reinstall all the oil port plugs. By taking out the oil port plugs, we are better able to clean all the oil galleys. The freeze plugs are also removed and replaced.

Upgrade to Multi Angle Valve Job:
In this process, we cut multiple angles in the valve job to help increase flow. With a 90mm chamber, we can add up to 5 angle plus a radius.

Resurface your head using a PCD (poly-crystalline diamond) tool.

Valve Seals:
Replacing your old valve seals with new ones.

Installation of the valve, springs, and retainers.

Set Lash:
This process we will set the valve lash to the camshaft's specifications.

Parts Included:
Viton Valve Seals
Oil Port Pipe Plugs
Freeze Plugs

SR20VE Stock Flow Analysis, Intake and Exhuast


If you plan on sending in your head, we will wait for your head to show up before work is started. If you don't have a head and want to purchase a core, then please select the type of head you want. For the VVL heads, we have to purchase a complete motor in order to get the head. So let us know what other parts you want off the motor, so we can send them to you along with the head.

Springs and Retainers:

We use Supertech Dual Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers. Choose which set suites your application.


We recommend Kelford 184-T cams for high RPM turbo applications. For race only engines, we recommend eliminating the VVL lobe. This reduces valvetrain mass and increases oil supply to the bottom end at high rpm.

Port and Polish:

Stage 1 port is just the cleaning of the casting marks in the port. If going to a larger valve, we recommend at least this port. This port is done by hand.

Stage 2 port is opening the bowl area of both intake and exhaust port. The exhaust port is paid more attention in this stage since the original port was designed for a naturally aspirated application. This port is suggested for 600-800hp motors and is done by hand.

Stage 3 port would be a similar profile as the regular Stage 2 but more consistent and better looking. This will be done on a 5-axis CNC machine for the best surface finish. This port is recommended for oversized valves. Valve guides will need to be replaced for this process.

Stage 3 port is taking the factory casting to it's limits. This is a CNCed port for high horsepower applications especially running turbo alcohol. This is suggested for motors making over 1200hp. Valve guides will need to be replaced for this process. This port is specifically designed for the +2.85mm valves. This will be done on a 5-axis CNC machine for the best surface finish.

CNC Combustion Chamber:

This process opens up your combustion chamber and removes the squish areas. The squish areas are there for low rpm tumbling of the air fuel mixture, but at high boost, they become a hot spot. This leads to detonation. Plus opening up the chamber deshrouds the valves and allows them to breath better.

The process can be viewed here: Mazworx CNC Combustion Chamber

R/R/R Valve Guides:

This process removes, re-installs, and reams the valve guides. The guides are replaced with Supertech bronze valve guides. For port and polish stages 2 & 3, this process will need to be done.

Machine for Hall Sensor:

If you are using our Hall Effect Sensor Kit, we can machine the head to accept it.

Machine for 1/2" Head Studs:

If you plan on making over 600hp, then we suggest going with 1/2" head studs. In this process we drill out the head for our 1/2" head stud kit. We also re-machine the dowel pin locations for the bigger dowels.